![]() You'll be inside the tent when doing this so be careful you're not going to rip anything. The longer toggle is used if you only wanted to use the grid and inner tent only(?). Hang the inner tent (including ground sheet) using the shorter of the two toggles. Hanging is made easier by not fully inflating the grid. Hang the outer tent to the grid using the toggles making sure that the opening lines up with the only horizontal/ground section with 2 guy lines. One wrap of gaffer tape around the nozzle seems sufficient but in the field may not be enough. This doesn't take much effort other than trying to keep the pump in the valve (my 16 year old daughter lost her rag a bit when I was timing her setting up). Initial setup in the conservatory involves (80%?) inflating the grid/airbeams (tighten all but one of the valves) via the smaller valve with a spike in it. I'll try and keep this briefish as I feel the other reviewers have covered the bases rather well. I also managed to detach one of the valves by accident during this struggle, so you can't be too 'violent' with it. It took me on average 15-20 minutes to get the thing in any acceptable compacted form and in the end I've resorted to putting in a larger bag. I watch the video on the Heimplanet web-site multiple times but still failed to get the tent back in the sack in as compact a manner as they could. ![]() If you are going to put it in the compression sack supplied, then be prepared for a major undertaking. Packing away is another matter completely. It didn't move once during a recent camping trip just freestanding without being pegged down, but I could lift the whole tent with one hand and move it around if I needed to. Inflating the tent is really easy and it feels really solid due it's structure. It makes a great deal about robustness and the fact that you can separate sections off in case of a problem, but offers no explanation as to how. The instructions are pretty sparse when it comes to detail. I don't think 3 people would fit comfortably in it for long, but for one or two it's ideal. If Heimplanet reading this, make a waterproof overlap, only has to be a couple of inches and make the stuff sack 10% bigger. The whole point of stuff sacks is that it is reasonably easy to get into and then you can tighten down straps. I usually just take home and do it there. ![]() Very minorly is that the stuff sack is too small, very difficult to get into. The only thing I think is a design flaw is no overlap in waterproof sections between inner and outer. I do like it and the ease of erection/dismantling is great. No damage and you can just pop them back into shape, but lets water in as there is then inner and outer layer contact, also a bit annoying as you are then in a collapsed tent. I thought I had pumped them up enough but maybe a 40 mph gust collapsed the tubes. Also you have to pump up tubes HARD (ie really hard) if you want to have stability in wind. I view this as a bit of a design flaw, there should be some overlap between inner waterproof part and outer flysheet. Pegging out outer pulls it away from inner a bit. Very easy to do, either some wind or if you push against inner with pillow etc. ![]() This means that the slightest contact between inner and outer in rain will let water flow into tent. There is no overlap between where flysheet stops and waterproof groundsheet turns up. You do always need to peg out the flysheet, this is for waterproofing. It is incredibly easy to inflate and I like it.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |